Erewań w pigułce, Turystyka zagranica, Armenia, Informatory przewodniki
[ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]
//-->YEREVANTravel Guide®– Special EditionToYerevan : 2 of 150- TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED -www.TACentral.comTravel Guide®– Special EditionYEREVANºñ¢³ÝByRick NeyMaps byRafael TorossianEdited byBella KarapetianFolk Art (p. 61)Woodcarving (p. 62)Children’s Art (p. 62)Literary Figures(p. 62)Hovhannes Tumanian (p. 62)Khachatur Abovian (p. 63)Avetik Isahakian (p. 64)Yeghishe Charents (p. 65)Derenik Demirchian (p. 66)Gurgen Mahari (p. 66)Musicians, Composers(p. 66)Alexander Spendiarov (p. 66)Aram Khachaturian (p. 67)Architecture, Urban Design(p. 67)Architecture & Urban Life (p. 68)Alexander Tamanian (p. 68)Science, Natural Science(p. 68)Herbarium (p. 68)Natural History (p. 68)Geological (p. 68)Zoological (p. 69)Art Galleries(p. 69)MONUMENTS & STATUES(p. 70)Cascade-Monument (p. 70)Mother Armenia (p. 56)Sasuntsi David (p. 70)Marshall Baghramian (p. 70)Pantheon (p. 70)Genocide Monument-Museum (p. 74)Old Abovian Statues (p. 75)Ring Park Statues (p. 75)Opera-Cascade Statues (p. 75)Mashtots Ave Statues (p. 75)Nor Nork Statues (p. 75)Malatia-Sebastia Statues (p. 75)CHURCH, MOSQUE, TEMPLE(p. 76)Central Yerevan(p. 76)S. Sargis, KatoghikehS. Hovhannes MkrtichPoghos Petros, ZoravarNork(p. 79)S. Mariam Astvatsatsin of NorkAvan-Nor Nork(p. 79)S. Hovhannes AvanAvan KatoghikeAstvatsatsin AvanAvan CemeteryGrigor LusavorichKanaker-Zeitun(p. 81)Spring Monument/KhachkarS. HakobAstvatsatsin KanakerMalatia (Bangladesh)(p. 82)Astvatsatsin MalatiaHoly TrinityErebuni District(p. 82)S. GevorgRussian(p. 82)St. PokrovKanaker Russian ChurchMosque(p. 83)Blue MosqueSynagogue(p. 83)OTHER SITES(p. 84)National AssemblyPresident’s OfficeConstitutional CourtsNoy Armenian BrandyYerevan Brandy ConcernGrand Candy PonchiksLIBRARIES(p. 84)National Library of ArmeniaAvetik Isahakian City libraryKhnko Aper Children’s LibraryFundamental Science LibraryMedical Sciences LibraryPARKS(p. 84)North Yerevan(p. 84)Botanical gardensPeace ParkCentral Yerevan(p. 85)Opera SquarePlace de FranceSarian ParkSayat Nova ParkTamanian ParkRing ParkEnglish ParkChildren’s ParkShahumian ParkPushkin (Lover’s) ParkBoulevard/VernissageArabkir(p. 86)Haghtanak ParkArabkir ParkNork/East(p. 87)Nork GardensNor Nork Park & Winter GardenHrazdan River(p. 89)TsitsernakaberdHrazdan GorgeTumanian ParkWest Yerevan(p. 89)South Yerevan(p. 90)Zoo(p. 90)SHOPPING(p. 90)Art Vernissage, VernissageEssentialsENTERTAINMENT(p. 92)MUSICClassical (p. 92)Folk, Traditional (p. 92)Jazz (p. 92)Tango, Ethnic (p. 93)Pop, Rock, Electronic (p. 93)PERFORMANCE(p. 93)Opera (p. 93)Ballet, Dance (p. 93)Theatre (p. 93)Experimental Theatre (p. 94)Musical Comedy Theatre (p. 94)Marionette Theatre (p. 94)Theatre for Youth (p. 94)Circus (p. 94)Other Theatre venues (p. 94)Theatre Festivals (p. 94)CINEMA(p. 95)Film TheatresFilm FestivalsNIGHTLIFE, WEEKENDERS(p. 95)DiscosBars, Clubs (p. 95)Café-Bars (p. 96)Pubs, Taverns (p. 97)Outdoor Cafés (p. 97)Music Clubs (p. 98)Jazz, Folk Clubs (p. 98)KaraokeRole Playing, Gaming Clubs (p. 99)CD/DVD Hangouts (p. 99)Internet Cafes (p. 99)Casinos (p. 99)Nightclubs, striptease (p. 99)OTHER ENTERTAINMENT(p. 99)Bowling (p. 99)Billiards (p. 100)Chess (p. 100)Clubs (p. 100)LEISURE, THEME PARKS(p. 100)SPORTS AND FITNESS(p. 100)Stadiums (p. 100)Fields (p. 100)Tennis (p. 100)Fitness Centers (p. 101)Jogging, Running (p. 101)Swimming Pools (p. 101)Horseback Riding (p. 102)Massage, Sauna (p. 102)HEALTH & BEAUTY(p. 102)PRACTICALITIES(p. 104)In And Out(p. 104)By AirBy Train (p. 106)By Bus, Minivan (p. 107)By Taxi, Hired Car (p. 109)Around(p. 109)By MetroBy Bus (p. 110)By Minivan (p. 111)By Taxi, Hired Car (p. 113)Embassies and Consulates(p. 115)Associations, NGO’s(p. 115)Tour Agencies, Guides(p. 116)Tour AgenciesInternational OfficesGeneral Tours (p. 118)Ethnographic Tours (p. 119)Nature-Adventure (p. 119)History-Archeology (p. 120)Spiritual Tours (p. 121)Karabakh Tours (p. 121)Medical (p. 121)Wedding (p. 121)Individual Tour Guides (p. 121)GeneralSpecialistMaps, Media, Etc.(p. 123)MapsNewspapers, TV, Radio (p. 124)Online News (p. 125)BlogsCommunication(p. 125)PhonePost, TelegramsInternet (p. 126)Money(p. 126)Banks, ATMsFilm, Batteries(p. 127)Time, ElectricitySuppliesSHOPPING LISTINGS(p. 128)Shuka, YarmakaSupermarkets, MallsMterks, Food StallsGifts & SouvenirsCarpets & RugsAntiques & HandcraftsMEDICAL, ETC.(p. 129)InsurancePharmaciesEmergency(p. 130)Hospitals, Clinics(p. 130)Dental(p. 131)Optical (p. 131)OVERNIGHT(p. 131)FOOD & DRINK(p. 137)ADVICE(p. 143)RESOURCES(p. 145)TABLE OF CONTENTSYEREVAN MAP(p. 148)INTRODUCTION(4)History (p. 5)Ecology, Climate (p. 11)When?(p. 12)Do (p. 13)INFORMATION(p. 13)Information ServicesPrint GuidesNAVIGATING THE CITY(p. 14)Districts (p. 15)SIGHTS(p. 18)Package City Tours (p. 18)WALKING TOURS(p. 18)Old Abovian (p. 18)Northern Ave-Opera-Cascade (p. 25)Ring Park (p. 28)Mashtots pta (p. 33)Hrazdan Gorge (p. 38)MUSEUMS, ART GALLERIES(p. 40)National(p. 40)Matenadaran (p. 40)State History (p. 42)National Art Gallery (p. 48)Cafesjian Museum (p. 48)Archeological(p. 49)Erebuni (p. 49)Karmir Blur (p. 54)Shengavit (p. 55)History, Memorial(p. 56)Tsitsernakaberd (p. 56)WWII Mother Armenia (p. 56)Yerevan History Museum (p. 57)Cultural(p. 57)Literature and Art (p. 57)Near East/Grigorian (p. 58)Art(p. 59)Sergei Parajanov (p. 59)Contemporary Art (p. 59)Russian Art (p. 60)Martiros Sarian (p. 60)Yervand Kochar (p. 60)A. Sargsian / H. Kojoian (p. 61)Yerevan : 3 of 150- TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED -www.TACentral.comTravel Guide®– Special EditionHighlights•Take the Old Abovian Walking Tourcrossing 3000 years of Yerevan’sHistory, p. 16•Visit the Matenadaran, the world’slargest collection of Armeniamanuscripts, p. 36•Gorge on Armenian khorovats (BBQ)at one of Proshian Street’slegendary khorovats palaces, p. 123•Visit the Bronze Age, L’chashen andDvin galleries at the State HistoryMuseum, p. 38(DD 40.18431 x 44.51503, elev. 1016m)Note about pronunciation: we transcribe words using localdialect, and substitute “i” for “y” as in Sarian for Saryan.“p.” stands for poghots (street), ‘pts.’ For poghotsner(streets), ‘pta.’ for poghota (avenue), ‘ptas.’ Forpoghotaner (avenues).Note: GPS coordinates are in decimal degrees (DD)Latitude x Longitude. Elevation (elev.) is in meters.NOTE: THE ARMENIAN CURRENCY, THE DRAM ISAPPRECIATING AT A VOLATILE RATE, THE DOLLAR ANDEURO DROPPING TO RECORD LOWS.THIS, COUPLEDWITH SOMETIMES UNANNOUNCED EXORBITANT PRICEINCREASES MAKES IT IMPOSSIBLE TO PREDICT THECOSTS FOR SERVICES WITH ANY SENSE OF CONFIDENCE,EXCEPT THIS: YEREVAN WILL BE THE MOST EXPENSIVEPART OF YOUR TRIP.Long a backwater in Armenianhistory the city now weighs in asthe economic powerhouse for thecountry,anditscultural,academic and scientific center, abustling city of one million busy‘Yerevantsis’ who always findtime for a cup of coffee and toshare an anecdote, advice and anopinion about the current events.The city is more than a capital, ithas become the central point of apeople, a magnet for the eightmillion Armenians living outsidethe country. This has made thecity much more cosmopolitanthan another city its size;Armenians from Buenos Aires,Marseilles,NewDelhiandMoscow can be found next to others from LosAngeles, Australia and Beirut, each with their ownunique take on life shaped by their experiencesabroad, but all bound by one unifying idea;Armenia.Long scattered across the globe, Armenians havealways brought the ideas and tastes of their newhomelands to the old. The result is a sometimesbizarre, often startling, always eclectic mixture oftastes, ideas and art, unified by a shared history ofloss and tragedy.Yerevan embodies this mixture in the houses itbuilds, the art it shows and the food it serves, withwonderful results.Spanish, Japanese andArmenian food sit side by side with French,Lebaneseandpubgrubinhigh-conceptrestaurants, trendy bars and hole-in-the-wallbistros. Yerevan’s cafes are caffeine palaces, builtaround fountains and flower beds and manicuredlawns. Many have themes (Chalet, Old Rome,Retro 50s, the Stone Age) that defy descriptions.Along side your cup of coffee (still less than $1) isthe right to sit and watch the world go by,something few cities offer.Armenians have so long had to prove their worthin their Diaspora countries they have developed aninordinate amount of talent, much of it on show inthe mother city. Artists argue the merits of postmodernism and expressionism as they display theirwork each weekend at Art Vernissage, an outdoorpark, while ‘lesser’ handcraft artisans ply theirwoodwork, jewelry, weaving ceramic ware andembroidery on the other side of town at OldVernissage, the largest Fleamarket in the Caucasus. Moresophisticated work is displayed atone of a dozen galleries in thecity.Actors perform in bitingsatiresandShakespeariantragedies considered among thebest translations of the bard’splays, while singers and dancersregularly recruited by Europeantheatres perform operas andballets n the large Opera House.Medieval music and folk dance isperformed year round, andtroubadours perform year roundin theatres, convert halls andclubs. One of Europe’s bestchamberorchestrasgivesconcerts each weekend in RingPark. Jazz, ethnic and rock music plays nightly,while the most respected Tango ensemble outsideArgentina calls Yerevan home. No matter the skill,Armenians seem to always have someone who is atrue master, close by.Interlaced with this internationalism is a totallyprovincial city that never quite got over its past asa garrison town in the Near East.Lookingwestward for a hundred years, Armenians have 6thousand years of being a part of Asia, and themixture of the two is not always comfortable, whilebeguiling.Men hold hands to show affection,women entice with their clothes and makeup inalmost shocking ways, whilebabulis(grandmas)dressed in grey and black hold down the familyfort enforcing a strict code of ethics and morality.•Visit the fresco galleries (7th floor)in the National Art Gallery, p. 53•Sip coffee in one of Yerevan’soutdoor cafés, p. 90•Visit the Sergei Parajanov (p. 53),the Near East (p. 52), and theYervand Kochar (p. 55) museums•Eat at one of the theme restaurantsin the Hrazdan Gorge, p. 34•Visit Opera Square (p. 22), thentake the walking tour to Cascade,Monument and site of the CafesjianMuseum of Modern Art, p. 22•Buy flowers and dried fruit at theOld Shuka on Mashtots, p. 31•Stroll down Ring Park, with its tree-lined sidewalks and lavishlydecorated cafés, p. 24•Go to Artist Vernissage and browsethe artworks on sale, p. 85•Buy handmade souvenirs (or a newfaucet to go with those Sovietmedals) at Armenia’s largestoutdoor market, Vernissage, p. 85•Visit the Yervand Kochar Museum,last studio for one of the world’sgreat modern artists, p. 55•Spend a night out clubbing at one ofthe city’s night spots, p. 89•Catch a play or film, be spotted atthe International Theatre or GoldenApricot Film Festival, p. 87INTRODUCTIONYerevan(also spelled Erevan, Erivan, Jerewan,Jerevan) is Armenia’s capital and the largest city.Yerevan : 4 of 150- TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED -www.TACentral.comTravel Guide®– Special EditionIt is not always clear where the lines are, but overriding everything is the Armenian code ofhospitality, which overwhelms many first timers.Yerevan is a city, with a city’s self-absorbed view,but it is also a collection of neighborhoods, ancienttribes and families, serious about their honor, alsoserious about how they treat guests. If you areinvited to someone’s home for coffee, expect atable full of sweets and cakes along with that cup,and if asked for dinner, you will think the tablemight break under the weight of so much food.This is par for the course.Yerevan’s cultural treasures are many if not alwayswell displayed. Museums include the worldprominent Matenadaran, which protects 25,000 ofArmenia’s most prized medieval manuscripts andminiature, a must on your visit.There are over 30 museums in Yerevan, from theState History Museum and National Gallery (thelargest of their kind in the Caucasus) to Art,Literature, Music, Natural History museums.Museums include excavations, woodworking, craft,children’s art, film and literature, and the soon toopen Cafesjian Museum of Modern Art, which willhold one of the most important collections ofmodern art in the world.The city also thrives on its new modernity, shakingoff the shackles of Soviet conservatism for someopenly celebrated hedonism. Don’t expect theexcesses of Cannes or Lesbos (at least at regularvenues), but you will be pleased at how cool theplace can be, with discos, bars, clubs and cafésopen all hours. Much of the night life doesn’tbegin until 9 or 10 p.m. and can last til dawn. Likemost ‘in-crowds’ it can be incestuous, but it isalways fun for those who want it.The city is in the throes of enormous changes now,not just between Diaspora and local Armenians,but also between the old world and the new.Reflectedbythedestructionofhistoricneighborhoods and the new high rises dotting thelandscapes is some serious soul searching aboutwhat kind of country Armenians really want. Ihave found even the most diehard hedonist tohave real concerns of what they can expect in theirlifetimes, and for their children.For most, Yerevan is the first stop on their visit.This is not necessarily a good thing, since the cityis experiencing a number of growing pains,starting with a building boom that has turned thissemi-desert city into one big construction site, withIf you come in the summer (most do), you mayfind the air thick and unpleasant. It is all due tothe construction (Yerevan can pride itself onhaving the highest per capita use of Natural Gasfor fueling its cars). Until construction ends the airwill continue to wane between a gorgeous blueafter hard rains and winter snows, and a hazywhite.When clear, the amazing contour of Mt. Araratlooms over the entire city, dwarfing the tallestbuilding. It is a tremendous thing of nature, and amelancholy reminder to Yerevantsis. Set insidepresent day Turkey, for thousands of years a partof historic Armenia and the symbol of theArmenian nation, the mountain is an untouchabledream, caught in glimpses and memories,shrouded in fog. So too, the Yerevan you mayfind. This is a city always on the brink, alwaysreinventing itself. No matter how close you thinkyou get to its pulse, t is enigmatic riddle that is itsessence, the more unreachable it becomes, likethe mountain in white air.cranes, bulldozers and welders combing the risingstructures of “New Yerevan”. Locals are unhappyto hostile about the whole thing, seeing entire oldneighborhoods disappear so that developers canreap a quick profit.Never mind theseneighborhoods were substandard and often lackedplumbing, or that in 20 years some of the newbuildings will be hailed as “historic” structures notto be touched, Yerevantsi pride goes backthousandsofyears,andthenewsitsuncomfortably with memories of the old.revealed Stone Age artifacts from ca. 250,000BCE, but the city’s history as a continuously settledarea probably began around 5000 BCE, at theBronze Age site in Shengavit district, just south.Prehistoric OriginsShengavit was extremelyimportant in the development of civilization on theArarat Valley, and its complex hierarchy within acommunal settlement, its unique round housestructures grouped into “hives” or clumps ofhumanity.The structure illustrates how inhabitants hadsuccessfully mastered the basics of survival andhad moved into a structure that showed some ofthe first principles of town planning and houseconstruction.Artifacts from the site includejewelry, female idols, baked-clay statues, a and afurnace for making flint forging instruments.Evidence of horse-breeding was also uncovered,the first of its kind in the Caucasus."By the greatness of the god Khaldi, Argishti sonof Menua built this great fortress, named itErebuni, to the power of Biainili and the terror ofits enemies. Argishti says: the land was waste, Iundertook here great works..."The name “Yerevan” is believed to be a variation ofthe word Erebuni, corrupted over time to itscurrent pronunciation (which is still in flux giventhe many spellings and variations used byoutsiders).Urartians also fortified Bronze Age sites at KarmirBlur, Yerablur and hills throughout the Araratvalley.The greatest was at Karmir Blur(Teishebaini), founded about a century later andwhich served as a worship and administrativecenter expanding by an influx of survivors from thesiege of Erebuni in 7th c BCE. Erebuni served as amilitary post, and the home for the governor of theregion. Excavations at Erebuni have reconstructedthe sites, with streets, houses, kitchens andstorage rooms built to support the large palaceand temple complex at the top. Restorations andexcavations have sometimes gone at cross-purposes, making it hard to determine whichlayers are Urartian and which Achaemenid Persianremodeling of the old fortress. What is clear is thiswas a large, complex city brimming with life.Also found were a number of other cuneiformstones, some of which refer to the Sushi Temple,located near the palace. The Sushi Temple isconsideredakeystonesiteinArmenianarchitecture, a crossover design from earlier Paganperiods to the styles that became favored byArmenia’s kings in the later Hellenistic period. TheLater settlements from the 4th and 3rd millenniaBCE have been excavated at Karmir Blue andBerdadzor, also in Shengavit district.UrartuThe city officially marks its birth from the782 BCE founding of Erebuni fortress (Erebunidistrict), during the reign of Argishti I, whoextended the territories of the Urartian Empire(also called the Kingdom of Van) to the Kur Riverin present day Azerbaijan.Excavations at Erebuni revealed a cuneiform stonebuilt into the fortification wall by the gate, aninscription on which reads:HISTORYYerevan is one of the oldest cities on earth.Excavated caves below the American EmbassyYerevan : 5 of 150- TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED -www.TACentral.com
[ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]